It’s a shame that Mark Kenly Domino Tan doesn’t have a bigger presence on the international fashion scene. Having cut his teeth at Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen, he’s one of Copenhagen’s most skilled tailors and a thoughtful designer whose clothes could stand on their own among the established luxury labels of Paris and Milan. He prefers to remain a bit quiet, however, often skipping the Spring shows in his hometown for intimate press appointments in Paris. Tan’s Fall 2018 collection—which he showed today in a chilly, stark rooftop space inside an old warehouse building—was proof that buyers and editors from around the world should pay more attention to him. Also, maybe it’s time for him to rethink the way he promotes (and doesn’t promote) his own brand.
Tan could start by pushing his brilliant suiting front and center. Today’s jackets and trousers came in earthy tones and with loose, easy silhouettes. The designer styled them with vintage scarf print pussybow blouses, which were modeled by clean-faced male and female models who wore their hair in slicked back low pony tails—a fine example of how to do unisex on the runway without it feeling contrived or try hard. It also felt a little bit preppy and collegiate, considering the draped and frayed tweeds and knits, his signature sculptural shirting, and oversized wool trench coats. You could see a number of the pieces on a range of customers, whether she’s a Phoebe Philo worshiper or he’s a Børns kind of guy. Tan has the focus and ability to lure them all, so long as he is willing to start casting a wider net.